Thursday, September 3, 2015

Ketchikan - Final (Part 3) - Forests and Totems

 
Ketchikan is surrounded by old growth forest with trees that are the biggest we've seen the whole trip.   Hope one of these puppies doesn't decide to fall down when we're around! 

 

 

 

 

Like trails we have hiked before, these are well established with some steps and boardwalks in sections that would be too slippery to safely walk.

 

'Stilted' trees start as a seedling, wrapping their roots around  on a fallen rotting log (called a nurse log).  The nurse log eventually rots completely, leaving the new tree roots appearing stilted with it's elevated roots.

There are spectacular fungus growths.

 
 
 
 

We hiked early enough to catch morning dew underneath a shelf fungus.

 

Mushrooms of all variety:


Yup, slugs here too. 

And - does anyone know what this is ??  It ran very quickly across a log, down low to the ground.  We only got a fleeting glimpse.


 Wormwood:  The animals that shape this wood are really not worms - they are closely related to clams.  The Toredo worms bore into wood structures near sea water, such as piers a ships.  They enter the wood in the larval stage, and then drill a hole using the two small shells on their head.  The worms can grow more than 1 meter long.


 YES!  So close to town - we have 4G.  Let the scrabble game continue.


From the monster trees, slugs and bugs, fungus and mushshrooms, worm wood and stilted trees, these are wonderfully interesting forests.

One of our 'parking lot' campgrounds. After a few days here, where we saw charter fishing boats come in and unload the day's catch, we had done laundry, taken a good shower, filled the water tanks and charged the battery, so we moved to a more beautiful state park campground.

  It was a bit rainy – the afternoon project (that would be Kris) was to erect a proper tarp covering. Tom had a wonderful nap. We collected wild blueberries and made campfire dinners with our friends Gerry and Sherry.



 


 

More than you EVER wanted to know about totem poles:

People have inhabited the southeast coast for over 9000 years. Living in such a resource rich area freed enough time to allow the culture to develop elaborate ceremonies, rituals, a distinctive art style and a complex social system. Northwest coast natives decorated everything from the most utilitarian objects to the grandest of totem poles. The primary colors used are black (made from charcoal), ochre (made from iron oxide or iron ore found in clay) and blue-green (from iron silicate clay).

There are many Totem poles in the area (the worlds largest collection), concentrated in museums, heritage centers, ad state parks. We saw a collection of 19th century totems that were gathered for preservation and protection. The project was a collaboration of great effort with the native elders, who provided interpretive information on the poles.



Totems were private property, owned by the family that commissioned them. In traditional Northwest coast culture, the artist enjoyed lofty status. Families of wealth and rank commissioned totem poles, house poles and dugout canoes that might keep an artist at work for a year.   If it was an outside village commission, the artist would live in the house of his employer.

Carvers learned the craft in an apprentice setting, often from their fathers. Carvers made their own carving tools. Explorers found metal tools in the hands of carvers before Westerners brought iron to coastal people. Speculation is that the metal was reclaimed from drift wreckage, or metal was obtained through intertribal trade. 

 This man is master carver  Nathan Jackson.  It was wonderful being in his art studio and asking questions about the process.




 Poles were carved for a variety of reasons – Mortuary poles to honor an individual, Memorial poles commemorating deeds and lineage of predecessors, and House pillars and Crest Poles contain with emblems of family history and clan designations. There are even shame poles to publicly discredit one who broke his word or behaved dishonorably. If amends were made, the pole was destroyed. While the figures on a totem pole might be easily recognizable, the poles meaning is only understood if one knows the the purpose for which it was created, as well as the individuals, groups, or stories associated with it.

Totems depict humans and animals in invented combinations. A frog on a house pole will prevent the house from falling down. Killer whales were drowned persons returning to visit. Standing atop a pole, the watchman warns of approaching enemy. The number of rings on his hat signifies the number of potlatches (explanation of potlatch below) the owner has given.

The Thunderbird is the most powerful spirit – only the most prestigious of chiefs have a Thunderbird crest. Thunderbird is a mythical bird known to create thunder by flapping his wings, and lightening by blinking his eyes. Whale bones found on tops of mountains are thought to have been dropped there by Thunderbird.  

Totems are carved from red cedar – they dry from the inside out.

This is an old Haida tribe legend pole:


 
 

There was a boy who showed no respect for salmon. He would step on salmon that were caught, and carelessly throw bones into the bushes. He was warned that the salmon spirits were not pleased with his bad behavior. One day his mother served him a salmon dinner and he threw it on the ground and ran down to the river to play with the other children. When he was swimming, the current pulled him out to sea and he drowned. There, deep in the river, he went to live with the Salmon People. He spent all winter with the salmon people, who were able to teach him respect for salmon. In the spring, the boy swam up the river with all the other salmon in the stream past his old village. His mother caught him in a fishing net and she recognized the copper necklace he was wearing as the same necklace she had given her son. She took the salmon boy back to her home, and after 8 days he turned back into her son. He taught all the villagers what he had learned about respect for the salmon. At the end of summer, he saw huge old salmon dying from their long journey upstream, and he saw his soul in the salmon. He thrust his spear into the salmon, and he immediately died. The people in the village placed his body in the river and he went back to live with the Salmon People in the ocean.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There is a legend about the creation of salmon. Raven and his wife quarreled and he hit her. She left the house and when he tried to catch her, she slipped through his fingers like fog. All the smoked and dried salmon followed her, leaving Raven and his slaves with nothing. Fog woman produces all salmon when the summer fog lies at the mouth of the streams. She produces the salmon and causes them to return to the creeks of their births.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Potlatches reinforce social structure through story telling, speaches, singing and dancing, totem pole raising and gift giving. Potlatches are symbols of wealth and can last for days. Potlatch celebration to bear witness to an event, repay debts. Stories are passed down. Many people are invited. It is a sign of wealth to host a potlatch. It is said that a potlatch lasts as long as it takes for the furthermost guest to travel to the event. They can go on for days. Guests from other clans who attended potlatches bore witness to the event, contributing to the wider collective memory. Unfortunately many of the stories and histories have been lost over time.

Clan House:

Twenty to Fifty closely related clan members lived together, working, eating and sleeping under the same roof. Relatives slept in designated areas, slaves near the door and behind a large painted wooden screen at the back of the house, the head of the house and his family would sleep. Clan houses were post and beam construction. The four corner posts are 10' tall and side beams are 3 feet in diameter by 30 feet long. Two center posts support a center beam with a plank roof with a vent hole for the smoke of a fire, kept lit in the center of the floor of the lodge. Walls are formed by fitting vertical planks into sills mortised into the base of the corner posts. This Clan house is a replica built in 1938 by the civilian conservation corps an it listed in the National Register of Historic Places.

 This is the clan house at Saxman village



 Loved it all ...

Next Post - Return to the Lower 48

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